Pigeon – HCP Retreat

Floating past Song of the Morning’s domes.

Highlights: When the Song of the Morning Dam was removed in 2016, the Pigeon River returned to its free-flowing roots for the first time in 100 years. It was a welcome fate for a river that cuts through the Pigeon River Country Forest, also knowns as The Big Wild. Even today, as technology spills into every crevasse of society, its nickname still captures the forest’s essence from deep woods to soaring pines to miles of trails to an untamed river biting through the land.

This section reinforces that image as the water tugs one along, floating past the occasional cottage and through the Song of the Morning Yoga Retreat. Because of the dam removal, this area contains a barrenness, but, where there was once a lake, revegetation is pushing its way to the surface.

Tag alders line the shoreline and an occasional downed tree requires portaging. But, considering that the river is unmaintained, I was surprised to only portage once and shimmy over and under a couple of trees. Like all of the Pigeon, expect to be alone, kayaking back in time.

Cruising on the HCP.

The bike ride incorporates a short section of the High Country Pathway (HCP), rambling along woodsy singletrack before dumping out onto secluded dirt roads. In short, anticipate an outing drenched in solitude, savoring the majesty of The Big Wild. (For alternative routes on the Pigeon River see here and here.)

Difficulty: Biking: The singletrack portion is an intermediate ride, rolling and twisting through the woods. The dirt roads are mostly flat with the occasional incline. Kayaking: Because it’s unmaintained by liveries, the Pigeon is difficult to predict, so be prepared for conditions, from deadfall to beaver dams, to change each year.

Location: From downtown Vanderbilt, head east on Sturgeon Valley Road. Drive about 6-7 miles and then turn right (south) onto Dudd Road. At the T-intersection, turn left onto Old Vanderbilt Road. Continue about a quarter-mile to a bridge crossing the Pigeon River. Leave your boats here. Retrace your tracks to Sturgeon Valley Road. Turn right, continuing east, to the parking lot across from the Pigeon Bridge Campground. Park here, a trailhead for the HCP.

A few riffles where dam was removed.

Route finding: Biking: Head south on the HCP for less than 2 miles to unmarked Round Lake Road, the first major dirt road. Turn right and pedal for about a mile or so and then turn right onto Old Vanderbilt Road. Continue to where you left your kayaks. Kayaking: The route is straightforward but watch for obstacles as the river twists around bends.

Map: Coming soon.

Biking & Kayaking Across Northern Michigan